Are you dreaming of learning digital patternmaking but don’t know where to start? Whether you’re an experienced sewist looking to transition into pattern design or a creative mind eager to bring your fashion ideas to life, getting started with digital patternmaking can feel overwhelming — trust me, as a self taught pattern designer, I’ve been there!
I’ve broken down the essential first steps that will help you begin your pattern making journey. With these foundational steps, you’ll be well on your way to creating your own sewing patterns in no time. The only requirement is patience, curiosity, and a little bit of maths!
Table of Contents
Step 1
Perfect your base-size bodice blocks
Base bodice blocks (for pants, dress, bodice and skirts) that fit your base size to a T will be the basis for all your digital patternmaking endeavours. I recommend investing in a pre-existing sewing pattern basic bodice block — it’s very easy to get this online, for example on Etsy, where you can even buy Adobe Illustrator files (highly recommended). You can get started with a dress block (which doubles as skirt and top), and then follow up with a pants block.
Then, your mission is to create as many toiles as possible to adjust the pattern to fit, especially where darts and bust-to-hip and waist-to-hip ratios are concerned. This isn’t the most riveting step, but trust me bodice blocks are the basis for EVERYTHING that follows!
Note that you will want one fitted bodice block for wovens and one for knits. Creating woven patterns is a lot easier for beginners since you don’t have to account for stretch, so I recommend you start there.
Don’t know what to use as a base size?
You can either use your own body and morphology as a base size, or use a dressmaker’s dummy, provided it aligns with your size chart (see below)
Step 2
Learn to modify your base patterns
Building from your basic bodice blocks or pre-existing sewing patterns that fit your base size, you can design any sort of style you want — this is also called pattern-hacking. Whether you want a flowy top with a cowl neck, a dress with an open back, or a gathered skirt — the possibilities are endless.
If you just want to let your creativity go with the flow, you can start by draping fabric onto a dressmaker’s dummy from scratch. While this gives quick visual results, I find it more difficult (initially) to undo the draping and turn it into a pattern.
But ideally, you should learn the basic pattern hacking techniques. And they are really not rocket science — once you know a few hacks, you know them all!
Don’t know where to look up pattern hacking techniques?
I have two favorite resources that give you insight into an insane amount of styles and how to translate them into patterns:
- Metric Pattern Cutting for Womenswear by Winifred Aldrich
- Patternmaking for Fashion Design by Josephine Armstrong
Step 3
Master digitizing patterns
This will most likely be the steepest learning curve as it will require you to learn how to operate a CAD/design software such as Adobe Illustrator, Affinity Designer or Clo3D.
Digitizing doesn’t have to be hard. Once you’re comfortable with the basic pen and line drawing tools, the easiest way for you to get from blank page to pattern will be to either scan your toile’s different pattern pieces (or photograph them flat), and then import them into your design program by retracing them.
Scale the pattern to make sure it is true to scale, and then retrace the outlines in your program. Try to use as little “points” in your path as possible — every corner should be a point in your path and the shape should come from the curvature handles alone. This will make grading so much easier down the line.
TIP: How to easily import patterns at the right scale
Easy! Just draw a 5x5cm or 2”x2” square on your piece for scale! Then scan or photograph the piece and open a new Illustrator document. In the document, create a true-to-size square by the same dimensions. Import your photo and blast the photo up in size until the square on the picture matches your vector box.
Step 4
Build your label’s size chart
Since you will most likely not want to design patterns for just one size, you’ll need to start thinking about grading. Your size chart is the first step here.
Yes, you could model existing size charts such as those provided by the big pattern companies such as McCalls, Burda, Vogue, but… I strongly recommend investing time in choosing the right size chart for you and your target audience.
Are those existing size charts really fitting your target audience’s body shape in real life? I found those conventional sizing charts to be far off from what a human body looks like, especially as they size up.
How can you develop your OWN size chart?
Consider surveying your audience’s body measurements and understand what the average bust, waist and hips circumference increments are between different sizes.
As an example, the size chart I developed for Sew Into That is a size-inclusive size chart spanning across 9 sizes from 2XS to 4XL and caters to a larger hip-to-waist ratio than standard sizing charts, which I found more representative of human morphology.
Step 5
Draft your grading rulebook
Okay… So you have your pattern in your base size and your size chart for grading. But where do you go from here? A grading rulebook (or rule table) needs to be conceived as a cheat sheet for how different parts of your pattern “move” and by how many inches or centimeters.
The direction in which every point moves can vary: there are four cardinal directions: inward, outward, upward and downward. Which direction you want to apply is something that pattern grading resources will tell you as part of basic grading theory.
The amount of movement (i.e. how much) you move depends on your size chart!
Here’s an extremely oversimplified example: if between your base size and the next size you have an increase of 4cm at the waist and 5cm at the bust, you’ll need to:
- increase both the front and back piece by 2.5cms at the bust (2.5 x 2 = 5cms)
- increase both the front and back piece by 2cms at the waist (2 x 2 = 4cms)
This can get very mathematical but once you get the jist, you’ll very easily be able to create your grading table. I love to use Google Spreadsheets to make sure I don’t make any mathematical errors.
Grading resources I highly recommend
- Grading Women's Garments by Nathalie Coppin
- Concepts of Pattern Grading by Kathy Mullet
A few important tips
- While you don’t need to be an expert advanced sewist who can whip up an intricate coast or blouse within a few hours, sewing experience and having worked on a variety of fabrics and patterns is still indispensable. Pattern design theory can be mastered, but it means nothing if the theory doesn’t translate into a wearable and fitting garment.
- You don’t really need to learn grading. There are plenty of freelancers that can do the job for you. However, the service is an investment you’ll have to make, and your hired help’s result will only ever be as good as your base pattern. And once you start pattern testing and adjusting fit, you’ll need to revert back to them for make the modifications.
Always remember, digital patternmaking is a journey that combines creativity with technical skills. Don’t feel pressured to master everything at once. Start with these fundamentals, practice consistently, and you’ll be amazed at how quickly you progress.
